Artist-in-Residence

Vito Acconci

A person's fingers lift a fake leaf to reveal a nipple printed on a pocket of a light skin colored garment.
Vito Acconci, in collaboration with The Fabric Workshop and Museum, Philadelphia. Leaf Shirt (detail), 1985. Prototype garment. Pigment on poly-cotton blend, 23.5 x 51 inches. Photo credit: FWM Visual Archives.

Vito Acconci’s daring conceptual practice spanned performance, sculpture, video, furniture and architecture. Described as having “made a medium out of menace” (The New Yorker), Acconci explored the body as subject, structure, and vehicle, challenging the limits of social acceptability through provocation.  

Acconci came to the Workshop in 1986, bringing his fascination with the human form with him. Though never completed, Acconci’s concept for a fleshy garment draped with dimensional ivy invites discovery: lift a leaf to get a peek at nipples underneath. In working with the FWM Studio team, Acconci experimented with different halftone prints of nipples and other printing techniques to create a marbled effect for the leaves. Ever playful in defying expectations, the artist advised for the nipples to be printed on pockets with a few of them sewn where one would not expect a pocket (or a nipple) to be located. As with much of the artist’s work, Leaf Shirt explores the possibilities of intimacy—and even eroticism—between the artist and strangers. 

Though Acconci abandoned the project—supposedly when the alternative rock band Talking Heads introduced their own leaf shirt—the FWM Studio circled back to it in 2001, sewing a prototype based on the artist’s initial designs. 

 


Art


From the Archive


Artist Bio

American, 1940–2017. Lived and worked in New York, NY. 

Vito Acconci is remembered for his intentionally unsettling performance art, video pieces, and installations.  His work has been characterized by an “existential unease” that pushed the boundaries of comfort and acceptability.  Acconci received a BA in literature from the College of the Holy Cross in 1962 and an MFA in literature and poetry from the University of Iowa. By the 1980s, he had drifted away from literature and turned to permanent sculpture. His first major installation, Way Station I (Study Chamber), sparked such controversy that it was set on fire and destroyed. Acconci taught at various institutions, including the Nova Scotia College of Art and Design, Canada: Parsons School of Design, New York, NY: Yale University, New Haven, CT among others.  Solo exhibitions of his work have been presented at the Stedelijk Museum, Amsterdam, Netherlands; the Museum of Contemporary Art Chicago, IL;  and the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, CA, among others. He is represented in several public collections including the Museum of Modern Art, New York, NY; the Whitney Museum of American Art, New York, NY; and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, CA.